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Palaces, Poets & Nightingales: A Journey Through Persia

On Wednesday I leave London for an 11 day excursion through Iran with my Aunt Kathleen & Metropolitan Museum of Art (MET) organized by Academic Arrangements Abroad. After a quick flight change in Frankfurt I will arrive in Tehran on Oct. 28th, and join our group of about 25 Americans will be a team of guides and curators, lead by Olivier Bernier. Itinerary is as follows:

October 28: Tehran

Attend a brunch lecture before we explore Sadabad Palace, built by the Pahlavi Dynasty in the 19th century and today a fine historical museum. At the Carpet Museum view the superb collection of Persian carpets from all over Iran. Return to the hotel for a welcome reception and dinner.

October 29: Tehran
This morning we focus on the Archaeological museum with its ceramics, stone figures and carvings from the 4th and 5th millenium BCE. Following a lunch of local specialties, tour the Abguineh Museum, which displays porcelain, glasswork and crystal in an elegant residence that was the home of former Prime Minister Ahmad Qavam. Dinner is at the hotel.

October 30: Tehran | Ahwaz
Golestan Palace is one of a group of royal buildings that were once enclosed within Tehran’s historic citadel. Among the highlights of our morning visit will be the state rooms used by the last Shah for official receptions. After lunch discover the Treasury of the National Jewels Museum, located in the vault of the Markazi Bank. View Iran’s stunning ‘crown jewels’ and the legendary Peacock Thrown. This afternoon fly to Ahwaz, where accommodations are at the Hotel Ahwaz Fajr. Dinner is at the hotel.

October 31 Ahwaz
Drive to Chogha Zanbil, built in 1250 BCE and one of the few remaining ziggurats outside of Mesopotamia. Continue to ancient Susa and the Achaemenid palace built during the reign of Darius I. After lunch, continue to Shushtar and admire the Sassanian watermills on the river Karun. Return to Ahwaz in time for dinner.

November 1 Ahwaz | Shiraz
Depart this morning for Shiraz, stopping to visit the site of Bishapur, the 3rd-century hunting palace of the Sassanian King Shapur. Following lunch, travel through dramatic mountain scenery and descend into the valley, arriving at the elegant Hotel Homa in the late afternoon. Dinner is at the hotel.

November 2 Shiraz
Our exploration of Shiraz, “City of Roses and Nightingales” begins at the residential citadel of Karim Khan of the Zand Dynasty. Then visit the pink-tiled 19th century mosque of Nasir-al-Molk, the Qajar period Narenjestan Garden and House, the Vakil Complex and the Bazaar of Shiraz. After lunch we will tour the Fars museum, an octagonal pavilion built by Karim Khan. Today it houses historic artifacts relating to the province of Fars. Dinner, with traditional music, is arranged at a former hammam (bath house).

November 3 Persepolis
Persepolis, once the center of the great Persian Empire and one of the most important sites of the Ancient World, is the focus of a full-day excursion. Explore the remains of the palaces of Darius the Great, Xerxes and Artaxerxes. Continue to Naghsh-e- Rostam to see Ka’be-Zardosht “free temple” and the Royal Tombs; and to Naghsh-e-Rajab, a nearby grotto with Sassanian reliefs. Return to Shiraz in the late afternoon to visit the tomb of the poet Hafez, located in a lovely park. Dinner is at hotel. 

November 4 Shiraz | Isfahan
Following breakfast depart for Isfahan, stopping in Pasargadae to explore the ruins of the capital and palaces of Cyrus the Great, including his majestic tomb. Arrive in Isfahan for check in and dinner at the Hotel Abbassi, a renovated 17th C. Royal Caravanserai that is considered the most luxurious hotel in Iran. 

November 5 Isfahan
Isfahan, the 17th C. capital of the Safavids, is referred to as Nesf-e-Jahan, or “Half of the World.” Today we will see the famous bridges of Shahrestan, Khajou and Sio-se-pol, and the churches in the Armenian Quarter, including the Cathedral of Vank. After lunch visit the splendid Friday Mosque with the famous Uljaitu Mihrab of the Il-Khanid period and the Palace of Chehel-Sotun (Fourty Columns), set in a beautiful park. Conclude at the Qeisrieh Bazaar, whose hundreds of shops display the art and handicrafts for which isfahan is famous. Dinner @ hotel.

November 6 Isfahan
Continue exploring the magnificent city of Isfahan, beginning with a stroll through the Maidan-e-Naghsh-e-Jahan, or Imam Square, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. See the Ali-Qapu Palace with its enchanting music rooms and balcony overlooking the maidan (square). Tour two of the Islamic world’s greatest mosques, the Sheikh Lotfollah and the Imam Mosque, with magnificent architecture and tile work. Following lunch you may wish to return to the bazaar or relax at cafe. This evening a festive farewell dinner.

November 7 Isfahan | Tehran
This morning is at leisure before we fly to Tehran, where day rooms are arranged at the Hotel Laleh. Late this evening, transfer to the airport for flights back home.

November 8 Tehran | London

Photos to follow…